Power Surge: Protect All Your Electronics.The benefits of whole house surge protection. Windows 98 Se German Isolationism . You might have plug- in surge protectors on some of your electronics, but you probably don’t have them for appliances with electronic circuit boards.Those electronics are sitting ducks for power surges generated by lightning strikes (even if the strike is miles from your home). Abstract. This section covers the Cisco 3700 Series Access Points theory of operation and installation as part of a Cisco wireless LAN (WLAN) solution. There’s a second use for Freedom, a simple app that lets you block distracting sites like Twitter for a few minutes, hours, or days. As the app’s blog points out. Thanks for choosing DevExpress for your software development needs. We are your extended team and are working hard to make certain you have all the resources. Wiring your Philippine house. Philippine electrical wiring. As part of our project to build our house in the Philippines, we had to learn about Philippine. Most newer appliances, cable boxes, exercise machines and that new Bose Wave are all at risk. And it’s not just lightning. Damaging power surges on the grid are common even when there isn’t lightning around. It doesn’t take much of a power surge to wipe out delicate electronics. It often costs as much to replace a circuit board as it does to buy a new device. That’s why everyone should have a whole- house surge protector. Those who live in rural areas are particularly vulnerable, especially if you live near the end of the power line. There’s nowhere else for the surge to go but into your house. A full- featured whole- house surge protection device (SPD) can protect all your electronics, appliances, telephone, Internet and cable TV equipment (the Square D No. SDSB1. 17. 5C is one type; about $3. Electricians charge about $1. But if you’re comfortable working inside the main panel, you can do the job yourself and save the installation fee. The job takes about an hour. I’ll show you how to do it. Storm Tip. Installing a whole- house surge suppression device is the best way to continually protect your high- priced electronics. But if you know a storm is coming, you can protect against fried circuit boards by flipping off the breakers to your stove, dishwasher, furnace, A/C and fridge. Just make sure you turn them back on after the storm passes. Buying a whole house surge protector. There’s a lot of manufacturer hype surrounding surge protectors. Ignore all the mumbo jumbo and head right for the specifications. SPDs are rated in kiloamps (1k. A equals 1,0. 00 amps). The really inexpensive SPDs start at about 1. A. They can handle one really large surge and then they’re toast—so they’re a bad long- term investment. Instead, look for an SPD with a minimum rating of 5. A. It’ll last longer than a 1. A device. If you’ve got telephone, DSL, cable or satellite service, get an SPD that protects those lines as well. Finally, make sure the device you choose complies with the most recent UL No. Not all the equipment on the market meets the newer standard. Once you decide on an SPD, you’ll also need a double- pole 1. Warning: Electrocution Hazard! Even with the service disconnect turned off, there are still live wires inside the main panel. If you don’t know which ones remain live, don’t attempt this project. Call a licensed electrician. Can you install it yourself? You’ll need two blank spaces, one on top of the other, in your main panel to hook up the SPD. Or, you can connect it to an existing two- pole 2. V breaker—but only if that breaker is rated for two wires. To find out, call the breaker manufacturer’s tech support line. If you don’t have two blank spots in your main panel or the existing breakers aren’t rated for two wires, you’ll have to hire an electrician to install a subpanel. Or consider buying an SPD that installs right in the meter box (see “Is a Meter Socket SPD the Answer?” below). First, the warnings Even with the main breaker (service disconnect) off, there are still live wires inside the panel. If you touch them, you could die. So before you loosen a single screw on the main panel cover, read how to connect a new circuit. Read the entire article and pay particular attention to the diagram showing the dangerous areas. If you have any reservations about working inside the main panel, call a licensed electrician. How to install the surge protector. Photo 1: Secure the offset nipple to the main panel. Remove a knockout on the main panel and insert the offset nipple. Spin on the dimpled locknut with the locking “ears” facing the wall of the panel. Then tighten it with a flat- blade screwdriver and hammer. Photo 2: Connect the neutral and ground to the bus. Strip off 3/4 in. Photo 3: Cut the black wires to length and install. Mark the two black wires from the SPD (a silver permanent marker works well). Then cut them to length and strip the insulation. Insert the bare wire into the breaker screws and tighten.Photo 4: Connect the telephone wires to the SPDRun the telephone wires from the demarcation device to the “in” connectors on the telephone SPD.Connect the house phone lines to the “out” terminals. on this page. Follow the same procedure for the cable TV lines.Remove all rings and jewelry before unscrewing the main panel cover.Then flip the service disconnect to “off.” Cut a cardboard protector and place it inside the panel to prevent contact with live wires. Remove the two circuit breakers directly below the service disconnect and relocate them and the wires running into them elsewhere in the panel. Position the SPD next to the main panel so the wires enter it as close as possible to the two vacant spots. Connect the offset nipple to the SPD and then to the main panel (photo 1). Secure the SPD to the wall with screws. Next, thread the wires from the SPD into the main panel. Route the neutral (white) and ground (green) wires to the nearest screw terminals on the neutral bus (photo 2). Make the bends as gradual as possible. Keep all the wires(white, green, and black) as shortas possible. Then snap in the new breaker and connect the two black wires from the SPD (photo 3). To install telephone and cable surge protections, find the service “demarcation boxes” on the outside of your house. Run lengths of telephone and coaxial cable to the new SPD and connect them (photo 4). As with all electrical projects, local electrical regulations always trump our advice. Always pull a permit and have your work inspected. Is a Meter Socket SPD the Answer? If your electrical panel is full or you’re not up to doing your own installation, a meter socket SPD may be the perfect alternative. It snaps into the meter socket. Start by checking with your local power utility to see if it will allow a meter socket SPD. If so, find out how much it charges for installation—you can’t install it yourself. Shown is the Leviton No. MSA, which is about $2. It is available through our affiliation with amazon. Meter socket surge protector. Required Tools for this Project Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. Required Materials for this Project Avoid last- minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. How To Repair Fluorescent Light Fixtures. Here is how to troubleshoot a fluorescent light fixture that will not turn on or flickers. Many times when a fluorescent light starts to flicker or takes a long time to turn on the ballast or light starter is going bad. If just one of the fluorescent tubes does not light (with a fixture with 2 or 4 bulbs), obviously it could be a burned out bulb. Before doing anything that involves replacing parts, try the DIY steps below to fix it yourself. To troubleshoot a fluorescent light fixture: First start by making sure you have power being supplied to the light fixture. If flipping on the switch does not turn the light on, check the circuit breaker. Once you confirm you have power going to the light, the next thing to do is make sure the fluorescent tubes are not burned out. If you have only one bulb out, it is most likely just that bulb has burned out and replacing it should fix the problem. If all of the tubes DO NOT turn on, then most likely it is a bad ballast. However it is possible for all bulbs to burn out at once but this is not likely. To rule out a bad tube or bulb, you need to determine if you actually have a burned out tube. To determine if the bulb or bulbs are burned out, install new fluorescent bulbs into the fixture. To be completely sure, replace all bulbs to be certain it is not a bulb issue. If the tubes light up then you know you have a bad bulb or tube. If the light still continues to not light up or it just flickers, then a starter or ballast is most likely bad. Most newer fluorescent light fixtures do not have a starter. The newer fixtures just have a ballast. So if you turn on the light and no bulbs light up even after the bulbs have been replaced, change out the ballast. Most common T8 ballast for 2 bulb light – Most common T8 ballast for 4 bulb light – New fluorescent light fixture 2 bulb – New fluorescent light fixture 4 bulb. If you would like to test the ballast to be sure it is bad before replacing it, follow these steps: First turn off power. Remove bulbs. Remove the metal cover that shields the ballast. Turn power back on. Turn on your voltage detector and hold it next to the wires supplying power to the ballast. If power is being supplied to the ballast but not out to the bulbs, it is a bad ballast and needs to be replaced. To remove and replace the ballast, follow these steps: There are many different types of fluorescent lights. Your light fixture may be slightly different from the description we provide but the principal is the same. First turn off power. We recommend to turn the power off at the breaker to prevent accidental power being supplied to the light while you are working on it. Remove the bulbs. Remove the metal cover that shields the ballast. Find out the type of ballast your light fixture has. Purchase the same type of ballast or compatible at your local home improvement store or online. NOTE: Sometimes a ballast is MORE EXPENSIVE than a completely new fluorescent light fixture. Do some research to find out which is cheaper before you purchase anything. Once you have your new ballast, remove the old ballast by following the instructions that came with the new ballast. If no instructions were provided, you can usually just cut one of the old wires from the old ballast and wire it to the new ballast according to colors and markings on the wires. Doing this one wire at a time can help you wire the ballast correctly and with less confusion if no instructions are provided)Once the old ballast is removed, screw the new ballast into place using the screws provided. Wire it up according to the schematic and instructions provided. If you have to cut wires, it is recommended to use electrical tape on top of the wire nuts for reasons of safety. Once the new ballast is wired up, replace the ballast cover. Install the fluorescent tubes back into the fixture. Turn the light back on and test to be sure the light works. How To: Change a ballast in a fluorescent light fixture. If you know of an easier way or method to troubleshoot or repair a fluorescent light fixture, please let us know by leaving a comment below. Thanks! Please Share Our DIY Repair Help Projects: More "Do It Yourself" Tips, Tricks, Ideas, Repair: Tagged as: ballast, bulb, bulbs, fix, fixture, flickering, flickers, florescent, fluorescent, how to, install, lamp, maintenance, remove, repair, replace, starter, troubleshoot, troubleshooting, tube.
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